As volunteers we don’t work all the time. There’s some spare time, especially on the weekends however there’s a smooth transition to be around all the time spending time with the Korando children who capture their imagination. Nonetheless we’re free to do something else on weekends. Time to see more of the country, to explore the country’s capital, Nairobi. A personal ground rule is to visit a country’s capital and/or major cities at least once when visiting a country for the first time. Those cities might be completely different however they represent the country. In a way. While I loved to stay with my new friends in Korando, I also wanted to see more of the country. Even if just for a weekend. And it was plenty to be amazed. For sure it was a small glimpse but it wouldn’t be the last time visiting the city of Nairobi.
The first thing I noticed in Nairobi: there are much more runners compared to the highlands around Kisumu. Probably because Nairobi is a much bigger city.
Another personal ground rule is, to go for one run in a large city that I’m going to visit. I’m not taking this too serious but it’s a different kind of “sightseeing” given the distance covering hot spots as well as green environments. At times slightly away from hot spots, among the residents. On that heat map however Nairobi was supposed to be the next spot. Unfortunately, two bigger parks were closed at this time due to maintenance (Uhuru Park and Central Park).
Not many Kenyans that I personally know would agree, but my opinion is that Nairobi is much cleaner compared to Kisumu. However, it depends on the point of view and where you’re around. Not a surprise, Nairobi’s wealthier districts such as Upper Hills, Westlands, Karen, Kilimani and Kileleshwa are clean districts. I was advised, when I am travelling alone, I should remain one of these districts. That’s why my view might be limited, a little.
Other than that, this city is amazing. Again, I only had a small glimpse, but it was very nice to stay there and it’s worth to visit the city again, to see more of it verve, the old town, business quarters etc. For me it looked like a nice mixture of (African) tradition and colonial vs. modern times. I had some very nice walks, through green places and towards downtown. Downtown is a crowded and busy place, a vivid district, full of small shops, market places and verve. I will visit this place again at another time. For now I spent time in a different area, for example the area around the presidential palace.
Advice: DO NOT take any picture of the palace or any spot of that huge area. It can lead to a hard discussion with the military. My only experience of that kind, else there was absolutely no stress. 😅 Once over it, I wasn’t sure where I was allowed to take pictures and where not. Yes, I could have asked someone who’s happy to show me around. For some reason I wanted to explore on my own at this time (and I have learned out of that). At times some locals approached me to start a small talk. I have used such an occasion to take a picture of the Nairobi governor’s office while maintaining a low profile.
It was interesting to talk to local people when I got into talks with them. Actually, that was easy. Locals are very friendly and open minded. Many of them just say “Hi” while passing. Or “Hey Mzungu”, to (perhaps) start a conversation. “Mzungu” means “white person” in Swahili, the local language. I have learned this right at the beginning. However, most of the conversations led to a specific topic eventually. To “assist” or “help” – which means to donate. To be honest, I liked to talk to them, to share stories and experiences but at some point it was too much since those talks mostly led to the same thing. Not a surprise. But I can’t help everyone. As much as I wanted and as much it was obvious that some support was needed. I have started to play the “volunteer card” which was accepted most of the time. People understood why I am visiting the country and what I am doing all the time. And they appreciated. They were happy and grateful about it and mostly this was the end of the conversation. With a good feeling for both of us. Which is good.
I have thought about it a lot of times whether to say that publicly. Why not? This whole experience is fully on my own. I am grateful to be there, to meet so many great people, to learn so much about the country and to give so many in return at the same time. To support children and an actual local community continuously. To give hope, to share knowledge and experiences with people who became my friends. Actually, the entire Better Me community is a large family and I am a proud member of it. But, and this is the other side, I cannot help everyone who asks me. Quite frankly, where shall that lead to? Nonetheless, I had some very nice conversations when talking to locals.
Another walk led me through smaller green parks. Pictures don’t tell the whole truth as I was not allowed to take many pictures at various places. And, due to recent events and discussions, I have stopped to take pictures of (random) people while walking around. Not many liked it obviously, so this was to avoid discussions and to pay respect. Part of the truth is also the rubbish problem. Did not seem that there’s a public waste disposal. As on other occasions I had to notice waste on street sides or even in parks. And waste being burned. I’ve already learned about some circumstances people have to deal with. Felt sad to see this but I won’t blame anyone because of lack of public service.
I have learned that there’s a river “Nairobi”. Not sure if the city was named after the river or vice versa. Despite all the greenish, especially the Nairobi River is highly polluted. Same for other areas and parks, where waste can be found. As mentioned earlier, I am not going to blame those people on this. I just that this will change entirely at some time. Through talks with my Kenyan friends and local news I have learned that conservation and environmentalism are highly important topics and efforts are massively huge. Hopefully any progress will push belief in this. And lead to an improved environment.
There was another chance to visit a museum: The National Museum of Kenya. That was amazing too. Another time to see and learn first hand about Kenya’s history and culture. I could find a huge exhibition of Kenya – in a nutshell: culture, nature, history, colonialisation, independence, economy, relations to neighbouring countries. Too much to share all this here. Find some pictures from the museum below. Else, you may find your own way to Kenya and to Nairobi! I am sure you won’t regret. 😉
Religion and praying are another huge thing in Africa as seen in Kenya. Churches and cathedrals look much different, far less opulent and less monumental compared to what I have seen before. But they’re nice. The Sunday mess is – of course – different and may last for hours. When I passed the All Saints Cathedral the Holy Mass was just over. On a different occasion I have learned, pictures are not allowed from within churches. Could not find any sign though. A reminiscence to the Sistine Chapel in Rome? 😉
And here’s an important side note for international travellers who arrive in Nairobi and who will have a domestic connection flight. You must pick up your luggage once you have passed the immigration. To pass immigration I highly recommend the East Africa Tourist Visa, to be presented as a print.
The East Africa Tourist Visa allows multiple entries between Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda. However, for domestic connecting flights in from Nairobi you need to change the terminal including your checked luggage which you need to pick up personally. There’s no automatic transfer. Don’t worry, only drop off luggage again at the domestic terminal once you passed the security check to enter the terminal. Pick up your last boarding pass and that’s it. From my personal experience, the airport staff is very friendly and helpful. They’re aware of the time you need to show up at the luggage belts once arrived due to efforts managing the immigration procedure. From my experience, nothing got lost after approx. 2 hrs. of immigration and finding the right place to pick up my stuff. I won’t forget that gentleman ready to help and to calm me down as I was tired and confused once arrived in Kenya for the very first time. 😅
Pro tip: avoid a longer layover at the domestic terminal to wait for unless you really need to rest or you’re open to visit the city briefly for the time being. You will easily find a cab driver going to support you. No surprise. 😉
What you cannot do is to return back to enter the international terminal to hang around as this requires a valid international flight ticket. Instead, recommend Café Paul, located at the roundabout between both terminals.
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