It’s been a tough slog today. They say you should stop while things are at their best, and that’s what I decided yesterday. But somehow, I still have to get home – and the route takes me to Bordeaux.
Anyway, visiting the village of Oradour-sur-Glane was a key goal for me, alongside Normandy. It represents a deeply tragic chapter in history. 😞🥲
All the more so when you see the site in person. Out of nowhere – and due to a case of mistaken identity – almost all the village’s inhabitants were killed and the village itself destroyed (it was actually supposed to be a different village, though that certainly doesn’t make the situation any better).
There is no justification for what went down in history as the “Oradour Massacre.” A revenge done by the Nazi German army in response to several acts of sabotage by the French Resistance and to “clean” the region from those being accused to support the French Resistance in any way.
It is something one should at least be aware of. I am going to share a number of impressions without further comments. Some pictures are well known, for example the next one. This car is completely burnt out and stands as a symbol of mindless destructive rage.
Similar the buildings. They leave traces of life that has stopped out of sudden and immediately.
All this has happened in the region dividing France into the rather Northern part of France, occupied by the Germans on one hand and the rather Southern part, collaborating with the Germans. However, Oradour-sur-Glane was located in the German-occupied zone of France during World War II. Oradour-sur-Glane is located around 20 km North of the town of Limoges.
Some more historical facts can be read from this map.
As with some other historical sites I’ve visited on my bike tours, it took me quite a while today to process what I had seen. It really weighed on my mind. Until now, I had only known about it from documentations. Experiencing it in person is something else entirely. It took some time to get over it but the coming moments while continue my ride have helped.
As for the ride today itself: it mirrored the route from Cherbourg to Caen. It started with a steep climb and involved constant ups and downs – interrupted only by one long, flat stretch. However, after my visit to Oradour, my “complaints department” is closed today. Nothing compares to the suffering that has happened in Oradour. That thought kept running through my mind.
I really appreciated those long, straight stretches, though, because they allowed me to cover a few kilometers quickly. The ride through a regional nature park was particularly lovely, as were the occasional passages through villages – something that happened every day.
Unlike the past days (due to weekends or public holidays), I kept noticing small village shops and bakeries where I could occasionally restock my supplies. I found one particular little bakery delightful. This one shop was a godsend by exactly that time.
That was enough food to continue my ride and there was a lot to see all the time. I just enjoyed the landscapes the changing views while cycling and felt in a good mood. Not at last, because there were so many points to refill my bottles. Luckily, I also had some parts providing shadow and occasionally there was a little wind, helping me through the heat. And then, at times, I saw some beautifully decorated villages. What a nice surprise. Not only flowers (like in almost all villages that I have seen).
Although my stomach was also constantly full during my “cemetery breaks.” You’d drink nearly a whole bottle of water right off the bat, then empty the next one over your head. That made the heat bearable. Although it was quite cloudy at first, it eventually got pretty hot. The regular breaks at cemeteries made things easier, though the many climbs and descents certainly didn’t; that part became quite exhausting and annoying. True to my vow for the day – to make no complaints – I took 99% of the climbs in stride with almost stoic indifference and composure. Knowing there was no way around them anyway. And knowing that most roads uphill would – naturally – always head back down again. Soon enough.
In another village, the name is La Tour Blanche, I unexpectedly came across a proper supermarket – albeit a small one – where I had the pleasure of enjoying the world’s best croissant. It’s a shame I didn’t have a second one, but my bags and my stomach were already more than full by then.
By the time I had this break I could also enjoy the view of a nice but small building that could appear to be a smaller chateau. Probably it used to be a mansion and serves as the town hall nowadays. However, the Château de la Tour-Blanche I have missed. But there are lot of castles in France though. The number of castles in France is estimated to be about 45,000. A bit more than one for each of France’s 36,000 communities.
Again I was ready for the next hours of my journey, passing lots fields of sunflowers and stunning panorama views. Any effort was worth it to get here.
Also, some curios things occurred, like a signpost showing the way to the Champagne region – which is far away from that place. And a village name that pretty much reminds me on my home country.
Even if this day’s elevation profile was hard, I pledged to not complain.
One of the rewards was the sight of vineyards at sunset – truly majestic. The landscape changed significantly just before Bordeaux (near Libourne): vines replaced barley, corn, and sunflowers. Very few of the grapes were ripe yet, though there was a chance to taste a few just before reaching Libourne – even if, of course, that isn’t actually allowed. 😉
The entry into Bordeaux was amazing, too. It started with a lovely sunset and and an equally lovely descent, followed by cheerful greetings from locals, and then a protected bike lane alongside the highway on a very long, impressive bridge over the Garonne river. It was a spectacular sight, especially at sunset.
The original version of the plan for today and the next days involved riding from Oradour-sur-Glane towards the Alsace region. That would take several days. But I would only do it if body, mind, and gear were in sync and everything ran smoothly. Since all those things didn’t go entirely smoothly the past days, I decided to call it a day for now. Until now I have ridden the same distance as we did with Team Rynkeby from Berlin to Paris. Somehow, I had the feeling, it is enough for the moment. I’m grateful I didn’t have to change an inner tube anywhere between Berlin and Bordeaux. At least, not my own. 😉
I am also grateful for the many wonderful impressions that remain as positive memories, despite a few hardships. There were no accidents, either – just a slight wobble in the rear wheel, which is, in a sense, part of the reason I’ve decided to change my plans: returning home from Bordeaux by train. Making such a move on the spur of the moment isn’t always easy, but I managed to find a route via Paris and Freiburg, where I will get train on Sunday afternoon. For the time being I will stay a night in Bordeaux including a nice sunset.
EDIT: In July 2026 there was a horrific wild fire close to Bordeaux. It has found its way through the dry woods. I have left the city just 4 days before the fire broke out. I am so sad the see what has happened just a view days later and I am glad to see, that this huge fire could be stopped.
However, thank you for all the support and feedback regarding my trip. I’m delighted that I could take some of you along virtually. Among the things that will stay with me are the beautiful – and sometimes lovingly decorated – villages, the breaks taken in cemeteries, the incredibly picturesque country roads, and the genuine French friendliness and hospitality. Thank you for that.
See you again soon back home. 😉
Last but not least, the map of the day: Saint Junien to Bordeaux
And a statistic for the day:
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